Trade in Secondhand Clothing
Analysis of markets in Uganda, the United Republic of Tanzania and the United States of America
Global trade in secondhand clothing (SHC) plays a vital role in promoting textile circularity. By extending the lifespan of garments, it helps reduce the pressure on landfills in exporting countries and provides affordable clothing options in importing countries where new garments are often financially inaccessible for a large majority of the population. This practice aligns with the circular hierarchy, which prioritises reuse over recycling and disposal, and supports inclusive access to clothing in poorer regions.
Despite these environmental and social benefits, the SHC trade is frequently at the centre of global debates on whether large volumes of unusable textiles or useful clothing and recycling materials are being shipped to poorer countries. The assumption that waste is shipped to developing countries has influenced both exporting and importing regions’ policies. Yet addressing these concerns requires robust, evidence-based analysis validated through primary data.
This report aims to provide evidence-based data at a time when regulatory changes are being considered, with subsequent impacts along existing supply chains. The data can help minimize negative spillover effects on circular activities, while maximising the environmental benefits. In importing countries, national strategies should integrate SHC into broader circular economy plans, identifying infrastructure gaps and fostering collaboration between formal and informal actors. At the global level, harmonising definitions, improving data systems, and incentivising transparency across the SHC value chain would help balance environmental goals with socioeconomic realities.