Global textile systems are shifting in response to questions about the sustainability, sourcing, and environmental footprint of the fabrics we use.
The textiles industry, valued at $1.6 trillion in 2023, is projected to reach $3.3 trillion in 2030, contributes to 2-8% of global greenhouse gas emissions and consumes about 215 trillion litres of water annually, and much of that impact is concentrated in developing countries. Yet it remains a key driver of industrialisation, trade, and job creation across the Global South.
In East Africa, fibrous agricultural residues such as banana pseudostems, pineapple leaves and sisal waste are often discarded or burnt. But these by-products represent a viable pathway toward circularity: offering biodegradable low-impact materials in the production of homeware items, paper, sanitary towels and even hair extensions. When treated and improved, such fibres can be blended into cotton and other fibres, acting as alternatives to synthetic fossil-based fibres like polyester, acrylic and nylon, which dominate global markets at approximately 60%, and contribute about 9% of annual synthetic microfibre pollution.
The Sustainable Manufacturing and Environmental Pollution (SMEP) Programme is helping to turn this untapped resource into a scalable economic opportunity. With SMEP’s on-the-ground pilots already underway, the region is well-positioned to build competitive value chains in sustainable fibres, advancing climate goals, reducing waste, and opening new trade pathways through waste valorisation.
This symposium will bring together key producers, buyers and enablers of the alternative and natural fibres sector across East Africa to:
- Map the natural fibre stakeholder ecosystem, from farmers and processors to innovators, buyers and policymakers
- Host producer–buyer–financier roundtables to accelerate collaboration and investment
- Explore enabling environments, including policy levers, financing models and market standards needed to scale the industry
- Open dialogue on regional coordination, including exploring the idea of a voluntary industry association
This initiative builds on the SMEP Programme’s objective to consolidate fragmented knowledge and stakeholder efforts across alternative fibre value chains in East Africa. It seeks to strengthen industry coordination and foster dialogue around a shared regional agenda to scale the use of organic waste and grow the alternative fibre sector as a pillar of a resilient, inclusive circular bioeconomy. It follows the regional dialogue initiated at the World Circular Economy Forum 2025, Embedding the bioeconomy into national circular economy plans, deepening the focus on trade-linked opportunities and industry development in sub-Saharan Africa region. This also builds upon UNCTAD’s experience supporting organic agriculture movements across Africa and South East Asia as part of the UN Cluster on Trade and Productive Capacities.
The SMEP Programme is funded by UK International Development and implemented by the UK Foreign Commonwealth and Development Office (FCDO) in partnership with UN Trade and Development (UNCTAD), who provide Technical Assistance to the programme. Programme management is delivered through a consortium partnership between Pegasys International and SouthSouthNorth.
Read more about the event on the UN Trade and Developments official webpage.
This workshop is in-person and by invitation only, as part of a targeted regional dialogue on sustainable natural fibres and circular bioeconomy strategies in East Africa.
Event Speakers
Chantal Line Carpentier
Henrique Pacini
Economic Affairs Officer, UNCTAD.
Henrique Pacini is an economist at the United Nations in Geneva, where he works on trade and circular economy issues. He has a degree in economics from the University of São Paulo, a Masters in European Studies from Hochschule Bremen, Germany, and a Ph.D in Energy Technology from KTH, Sweden. He co-chaired Harvard’s first Circular Economy Symposium and has published over 60 articles on environment, energy, trade and development issues.
The SMEP Projects working with Alternative Fibres
Additional Resources
