TEXTILES AND APPAREL SECTOR
Amidst the vibrant colours and intricate designs of the fashion world lies a deeper, often overlooked story of the profound impact textile manufacturing has on our environment and health.
This USD 1.7 trillion industry is estimated to account for 10% of global carbon emissions, driven by its energy-intensive production processes and extensive transport and shipping requirements. The industry is heavily reliant on natural resources, requiring vast tracts of land to grow cotton and other natural fibres, and furthermore requires enormous quantities of water to produce a single garment. For instance, it is estimated that producing a single cotton t-shirt can use up to 2,700 liters of fresh water1. Moreover, textile dyeing and finishing processes contribute approximately 17–20 % of global industrial water pollution2.
To grasp the complexities of this compounded environmental impact, one needs to understand the textile manufacturing process. It involves multiple steps to convert raw fibre into a finished garment, including spinning the fibres into yarn, weaving or knitting yarns into textiles, bleaching, dyeing, printing, and finishing. Conventional textile manufacturing relies on and uses a variety of chemicals and resources at each stage which in turn generate diverse waste materials. When untreated waste, often in the form of wastewater, is released into the environment, it can harm the physical, chemical, and biological aspects of both land and water ecosystems. In addition, synthetic fibres make up a substantial portion of textile production. In recent years, concerns have grown about these materials, as it has been shown that synthetic textiles can release a large quantity of microfibers during regular washing, which eventually enter the natural environment3. These various pollution pathways pose risks to ecosystems (terrestrial and aquatic), overall biodiversity, and ultimately, human health, as depicted in the figure below 4.
Consumer behaviour often exacerbate these environmental pressures. Fast fashion has gained momentum over the past decades and people are purchasing more clothing, wearing the items less frequently and discarding more (textile utility). New technologies for recycling used textiles into new garments are starting to appear (textile-2-textile recyling), but these remain costly. Currently only about 1% of used clothing (and textile off-cuts) are recycled into new garments (closed-loop recycling)5. One will no doubt wonder where the rest of our discarded and used clothing end up? The Ellen McArthur Foundation estimates that around 25% of all garments bought (globally) are collected for reuse or recycling through a variety of system, with the rest ending up in landfill6.
Where is the pollution concentrated?
The SMEP baseline research provides a thorough evaluation of the environmental impact of manufacturing focusing on Sub-Saharan Africa and South Asia. The study found that the socio-economic significance of this sector in the SMEP target countries is unmistakable. In South Asia, the textiles and apparel industry rank among the top five sectors for the number of establishments, employment levels, contribution to the local economy, and exports. However, its prominence also highlights the potential scale and scope of environmental pollution it could generate, which may have localised health implications.
How is SMEP intervening to address these challenges?
With growing environmental concerns around the production of textiles and apparel, and the exponential growth in the sheer volumes of produced goods, a transition to sustainable and circular textile industry is more important than ever.
The SMEP baseline study pinpointed critical areas where interventions can significantly reduce environmental pollution in the textile industry and, consequently, lessen the impact on human health. These recommendations are in line with focus areas identified by other international bodies6 7 for promoting sustainable textile production and circularity. They can be categorised into three main areas:
- Shifting consumption patterns and extending the lifespan (utility) of garments.
- Cleaner production and improved practices to encourage resource efficiency and textile recycling.
- Infrastructure investment to mitigate environmental pollution and to reduce the reliance on substances of concern.
Following an extensive and rigorous call for proposal process, the SMEP Textiles portfolio now includes six exciting projects in Uganda, Bangladesh and Pakistan. These interventions align with the aforementioned focus areas and aim to leverage key entry points into the textile value chain. See a description below and visit the project pages for more information and regular updates on the progress of these promising interventions.
Uganda Circular Textiles
This project is designed to support the upskilling and training of tailors, students and product designers to reuse secondary textiles.
UGANDA
Reverse Resources
PAKISTAN & BANGLADESH
Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD) installation for purifying and reusing up to 95% of textile wastewater at key Bangladesh suppliers
A pilot project which aims to demonstrate the technical robustness of a modular ZLD system and to develop a supporting business case for the adoption of sustainability measures by RMG/textile factories in Bangladesh.
BANGLADESH
Optimising a textile manufacturing facility as demonstration site to reuse water and enhance wastewater management
This project involves piloting innovative Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) technologies at a textile manufacturer to reduce the facility’s blue water footprint.
BANGLADESH
SAFECONOMY – Reinventing the Textile Circular Economy
Piloting of an innovative technology to address the release of hazardous chemicals into the environment from textiles manufacturing wastewater through piloting an innovative Molecular Distortion Technology.
PAKISTAN
Sustainable Textiles through Upscaling and Commercialisation of Banana Fibre Value addition in East Africa [BANATEX-EA]
The project embodies circularity and resource efficiency by aiming to transform agricultural waste (banana pseudo stems) into valuable by-products (spinnable fibre), whilst reducing reliance on environmentally harmful disposal methods.
UGANDA
REFERENCES
1. Choudhury, A.K.R. (2014). Environmental Impacts of the Textile Industry and its Assessment Through Life Cycle Assessment, in Muthu, S. (ed.). Roadmap to sustainable textiles and clothing. Springer. pp. 1- 39
2. Kant, R. (2012). Textile dyeing industry an environmental hazard. Natural Science, 4(1), pp. 22-26.
3. Hartline, N. L. et al. (2016). Microfiber masses recovered from conventional machine washing of New or Aged garments. Environmental Science & Technology, (50), pp. 11532-11538.
4. Stockholm Environment Institute Report. Manufacturing Pollution in sub-Saharan Africa and South Asia: Implications for the environment, health, and future work, 2020. SMEP Programme
5. European Parliament (2024). The impact of textile production and waste on the environment (infographics). Available: https://www.europarl.europa.eu/topics/en/article/20201208STO93327/the-impact-of-textile-production-and-waste-on-the-environment-infographics.
6. Ellen MacArthur Foundation, A new textiles economy: Redesigning fashion’s future (2017).
7. United Nations Environment Programme (2023). Sustainability and Circularity in the Textile Value Chain – A Global Roadmap. Paris.